A tip to prevent others wasting as much time as I did. The documentation section "Binding WebGrid to a WebHierarchicalDataSource" is missing a key point.
Set the ViewType off the DisplayLayout object to Hierarchical.
or in code
UltraWebGrid1.DisplayLayout.ViewType = ViewType.Hierarchical
The example uses ObjectDataSource components. It shows setting up classes in order to add and change data. These are not necessary with SQLDataSources (no I didn't get as far as trying that). You can edit data without even having to set any Update SQL.
It is also not documented that you delete a row by selecting a cell (or row) and pressing the Delete or Del key. This is, perhaps, obvious but since it is not what you do in either Excel or Access I would have thought it worth a mention somewhere.